The steering column, which must be removed or removed when changing frames, removing front axles or pointing two-spoke steering wheels, usually has a very strong connection to the steering round. To do this, first remove the steering wheel cover and tilt the rust remover in the steering column and let it act. The steering column clamp (SW 11) is best loosened after the Ko-t wing has been removed. Remove the screw and use a screwdriver to pry the clamp open so that it falls down.
Now the locking ring must be removed from the steering lock. To do this, unscrew the cover around the locking ring (SW 7) and unlock the steering lock. Now turn the handlebars and dive into the duck's foot space and look from the back right into the opening of the steering lock. There you can see the locking ring, which is attached with two allen bolts SW 5. Unscrew the screws until the locking ring can be pressed onto the column. It makes sense to remove the flashing light relay, because that's a bit in the way.
Now all that needs to be removed is the steering column. Sometimes it is enough to pull the steering column at the bottom of the steering wheel spoke with more or less powerful handshakes. However, if the steering column is still there with the original rust since 1986, another method should be used. Variants with distribution forks, chisels or screwdrivers at the bottom of the rumdöllern steering column usually lead to their death. If the steering column is already broken or the tooth is turning, it does not matter, but care must be taken that the toothing of the steering round is not crumbled if it is not already over...
If the steering column is to survive, a tractor must be used. My construction for this looks like this: Take an old handlebar and remove the foam rubber in the middle, where it is screwed onto the steering column. Now bend this centre piece loose and read an M 12 nut on the top. Make sure that the nut is exactly flat on the middle part. The nut must then be machined with the flex so that all three screws of the steering wheel attachment can be screwed onto the steering column. If necessary, work with allen bolts.
Now turn an M 12 wire rod, which is about 50 mm longer than the steering column, through the welded nut and weld another nut to it. To pull off the steering column, remove the handlebar, insert the trigger into the steering column and secure it with the three SW 11 screws. Now turn the wire rod into the steering column with a 19 mm spanner until it gets to the steering round of the front axle. As you continue to rotate, the steering column is now carefully pulled through the curve. Voila!
Before mounting the steering column, check that the tooth is still in order, that the steering column has a crack (usually at the level of the cutout for the steering column screw) or is even bent. When replacing, do not forget the locking ring, the cover of the ignition lock and the rubber on the pedal base. It is best to replace the steering column clamp. When driving in the steering column, it is best to work together. The pillar is slowly lowered from the inside, the second holds the clamp around the pillar and slowly steers the steering column into place. The cutout of the curve should be exactly in line with that of the steering column, otherwise you will be sad when trying to mount the screw. Very important: always use a new screw (size M7 x 50 mm), self-locking nut and rings 7x14!
The position of the steering wheel spoke must of course also be taken into account when mounting. With the single spoke steering wheel, the spoke is logically nicely parallel at eight o'clock, with two-spoke steering wheels. After sliding the steering column open on two-spoke steering wheels, do not screw everything together, but check the middle position of the steering wheel by briefly and carefully driving in a straight line and possibly shifting the steering column again. Precise alignment greatly increases the entertainment value of a two-spoke handlebar.
