When the dashboard light fails or when the speedometer is almost invisible in the dark, it's time to replace the light.

It is important to know that the cable of the speedometer is attached to the dashboard. There are two ways to detach the cable from the speedometer. The first method is to disconnect the cable from the gearbox. To do this, both splash guards must be removed. Another method is to disassemble the battery and the battery box. This method is described here.

The battery and the battery box are disassembled and you immediately look through the hole on the back of the dashboard. You can easily unscrew the cable gland from the speedometer.

Then the screws can be removed from the dashboard. Two on the left and two on the right.

The third screw on the left side can remain in place. This means that the meter plate is fixed in the dashboard.

In the photo of the back of the counter plate, the socket of the light is circled in yellow. The light that belongs in it is a 12 Volt T4W 4 Watt light with a BA9s base/socket.

After replacing the bulb, everything can be reassembled in reverse order. Reconnecting the counter cable may require some patience. Loosening is done in no time, but securing it is sometimes more difficult. But the same goes if you have loosened the cable on the gearbox. Securing the meter cable to the gearbox does not always work in one go.

Amenities:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Stitch Ring Key 8, 10, and 11
• New light 12 Volt T4W 4 Watt bulb with a BA9s base/socket
• Patience
• Possibly socket 8 and socket 19 with ratchet to disassemble the mudguards if you want to disconnect the counter cable on the gearbox.

Right next to the discs are the brake pads. Replacing the brake pads seems more complicated than it is in practice. The cost is not either, so if there is any doubt about whether the brake pads are still good, it is advisable to replace them. My preference is for a renowned brand such as Brembo. The easiest way is to disassemble both side screens.

The closer the steel of the blocks gets to the discs, the thinner it will beis becoming the friction material. Don't wait for the steel to touch the discs. Also install new discsis more expensive. Always replace the blocks one by one, otherwise when pushing back the next block, the first one will bepiston is pushed back and you can never get a block in between without disassembling the brake calipers.

The new blocks are thicker and so the old block has to push the cylinder back first to make room. Push withA sturdy screwdriver pulls one of the blocks off the disc to the side. Until the thicker new blockin between.

Lift the retaining spring and the brake pad will fall down. Catch the old block. Otherwise, this falls exactly into the cooling tunnel underneath.

GodHold the new block in place as high as possible and pull it into place under the clamping spring. In the otherBlock the same way and then step on the brake pedal to push the cylinders.Do this before you ride! Otherwise, you won't have any brakes!The new blocks should be the firstTwo hundred kilometers should be used carefully to wear on the disc. Necessity, of course, breaks the law.

Amenities:

• Socket 8 and socket 19 with ratchet to disassemble the mudguards
• Two sturdy flat-head screwdrivers

From time to time, the valves need to be adjusted. It is necessary for the engine to function properly that the valves are properly adjusted. 

On both sides of the engine block is a cylinder head with a total of four valves. Two exhaust valves and two intake valves. In particular, the exhaust valves have to deal with it. The red-hot gas mixture that has just been burned blows past it again and again at an enormous speed. The temperature of this combusted gas can rise to about 1000ºC. The valves are therefore constantly cooled with oil.Despite this, both the valves, the valve stems and the rocker arms get quite warm. However, warm materials expand and to prevent the valves from closing completely due to expansion, a small amount of space must be left between the rocker arm and the valve stem. Not too much, because then the valves won't open far enough, but certainly not too little, because then they won't be able to close properly.It seems so simple, a little space or play in between and then you're fine. But over the years, various engine types have been developed. The valves of all these types have to be adjusted periodically (every 10000km), but unfortunately not all in the same way. We will try to indicate as briefly as possible what differences there are and then only describe the adjustment of the valves of the .

Koud of warm?2CVs from before March 1954 are set with a cold engine, then until about 1973, with a warm engine. This meant that the car had to be driven for a while before adjusting the valves. The first mentioned adjustment when the engine is cold is 0.15 mm for the intake valves. and 0.20 mm. for the exhaust valves. If the adjustment has to be done for a warm engine (see the Citroën manual for this) then the clearance for both types of valves is 0.20 mm.

With the 2CV6 engines, the valves are adjusted at 20ºC outside temperature, with a cold engine. Both the inlet and exhaust valves are adjusted to 0.20 mm.This applies to modern 602cc engines.

Adjusting valves for a 2CV6 and similar engines with cooled engine:Place a small container (e.g. from the Chinese or an empty butter dish) under the valve cover, to collect the oil that is in the valve cover. It's just a little bit of oil, but if there's no container underneath, it makes a lot of mess.

After loosening the nut of this cover with wrench 12, it is sometimes necessary to give the cover a small tap with a plastic hammer to loosen it. We do the same on the other side.

There are three methods that can be used to adjust the valves. All three work equally well and it's up to you what you find easiest to work with.

Method 1: (Opposite Valves) The engine should be turned until one valve is fully opened on one side. Now adjust the same valve on the other cylinder. This procedure must be performed for each valve.

Method 2: (Same Side) One valve is fully open; The other valve on the same side needs to be adjusted. This procedure should also be performed for each valve.

Method 3: (balanced) On one side, both valves must be in the same position. The exhaust valve closes and the intake valve is just starting to open. When both valves are at the same height, adjust both valves on the other cylinder.

What I'm describing here is method 1.

We can make the engine run slowly by hand with the crank, or by lifting one front wheel just off the ground with a jack. When the gearbox is put in second gear, the wheel can be turned with little force and the engine rotates with it. Some people disassemble the spark plugs so that the engine runs more easily without resistance. Personally, I am not in favour of this, because something could always fall into it.

We then turn the engine around until we see one of the bottlenose dolphins go inside.

We stop turning and can now check the rocker arm of the opposite cylinder and adjust it if necessary.

If a 0.20 mm feeler gauge can pass smoothly between the valve stem and the rocker arm, the valve is in the right position. If you hear a (soft) tap when you run a feeler gauge of 0.20mm through it, it is just not in the right position. What should definitely go smoothly through it is 0.15 mm. If 0.25 mm fits smoothly, the clearance must be adjusted to 0.20 mm.The easiest way to adjust this is with a special valve adjustment wrench. However, I can also do it with (ring) wrench 10 and a well-fitting screwdriver.

We check the other valves in exactly the same way by opening the same valve from the opposite cylinder.

Personally, I always err on the side of caution, and turn the engine around a few times and then measure again. After all four valves have been properly adjusted, the cover is reassembled. First, check the valve cover gasket. This one should still be flexible, you should be able to make an impression in it with your nail. Replace the gasket if it is too hard.

The valve cover gasket should be glued to the valve cover with Bostik 1400 Neoprene adhesive. If present, the widest part of the gasket should be at the bottom. The lid should only be tightened very lightly, 5-7 Nm if you have a torque wrench. In practice without a torque wrench, you can tighten the nut of the valve cover by hand and then half a turn extra with the wrench12 tighten until there is some tension on the lid. The lid must no longer be able to be moved back and forth by hand, otherwise the nut will have to be turned at most once. If you make more strokes, you run the risk of pulling out the stud when the engine warms up. After lightly tightening the covers, check if there is any oil leakage by running the engine. After this, check the oil level and top it up.

A 2CV also needs regular maintenance. Good maintenance ensures a lot of safe kilometers and reduces the chance that you will come to a standstill. In addition, you will get to know your 2CV well.

The maintenance of course depends on the kilometers driven and is divided into four schemes that you can download for free at the bottom of this page. If no maintenance history is known, I recommend that you run the most comprehensive schedule: maintenance schedule D:

Service - Under the car

• 1) Motorcarter: draining
• 2) Oil filter (if fitted): replace
• 3) Gearbox/differential: draining
• 4) Doorsmeren (nippels): fusees (2), schuifstukken (2) van aandrijfassen – Total MULTIS
• 5) Spring system: lubricate tilting blades with oil
• 6) Brake lines: check

Service - Wheels and brakes

• 7) Disc brake pads: check
• 8) Brake lining for: check
• 9) Rear brake lining: check
• 10) Braking: adjusting
• 11) Handbrake: adjusting
• 12) Tyres: check condition and voltage – Cold: 125R15 – front: 1.5-1.8bar (21-26 p.s.i.), rear 1.8bar (26 p.s.i.); 135R15 – front: 1.4bar (20 p.s.i), rear 1.7bar (24 p.s.i.)

Service - Other activities

• 13) Motorcarter: refill, e.g. Total GTS 20W50. Capacity 2.2 litres
• 14) Gearbox/differential: refill – Total EP SAE 80, capacity 0.9 litres
• 16) Brake fluid reservoir: refill – Total Hydr. BRAKEFLUID HD, models with disc brakes only Total LHM
• 17) Speedometer cable: Lubricate with grease
• 18) Pedals: lubricate pivot points with oil
• 19) Coupling cable (disassembly and assembly): lubrication with grease – Total MULTIS
• 21) Fan belt: adjust, replace if necessary
• 22) Valves: adjustment – inlet/outlet (cold)
• 23) Spark plugs: cleaning, replacing and adjusting if necessary – distance electrodes 0.6-0.7mm
• 24) Breaker points: check, refresh and adjust if necessary – distance 0.40-0.45mm
• 25) Crankcase ventilation system: valve cleaning and checking
• 26) Air filter: replaced
• 27) Carburetor: cleaning filter and nozzles
• 28) Carburetor: lubricate rods with oil
• 29) Clutch: adjustment – freestyle pedal 20-25mm
• 30) Battery: refill, clean clamps and lubricate with Vaseline
• 31) Ignition: adjust time (see special factory instructions)
• 32) Carburetor: adjusting
• 33) Electrical installation: check
• 34) Headlamps: adjusting
• 35) Hinges, locks, door catchers, etc.: lubrication with oil
• 36) Windscreen washer reservoir: refill
• 37) Windscreen washer: check
• 38) Front wheels: alignment – track (untaxed) 1-3mm, camber 1° +/- 30
• 39) Fuel/oil: check for leakage
• 40) Take a test drive

 Download your free maintenance schedule here:

• Onderhoudsschema A
• Onderhoudsschema B
• Onderhoudsschema C
• Onderhoudsschema D

You can get which schedule you need from the table below:

The Dutch Dyane Racing Team suffered a serious crash last yearCircuit Zandvoort. At the moment the car is being rebuilt and it is getting nicer than before.

Unfortunately, this means they can't participate in this year's race in Zandvoort, but they promise to be back in Spa!

I wanted to lock the trunk the other day and I got the key in the lock, but turning around was not possible.

After injecting with WD40 and fiddling with the key, it eventually managed to turn the key around for a quarter. Pulling it out certainly didn't work. 

Then disassemble the lock and see if it's commonplace. I was surprised how much rubbish and dirt can get into such a lock! To remove the rust, I put all the parts in strong vinegar for over a day. Another acid will work, as long as it's an acid. This reacts with the rust and so you can easily remove the rust.

After the acid bath, rinse well under the tap and continue cleaning the lock. With me, the slide was fixed, but with some drenched and back and forth I got the slider common. 

In this slide there is also a cap with a spring behind it. With me, this cap was stuck in the slider. To get it loose, I used a very thin drill to pierce a hole in the cap so I could pull it out. 
Then clean thoroughly and close the hole with the soldering torch and some tin.

The whole lock is then put back together (don't forget the little feather) and it works as it is meant by Citroen.

What I've read on many forums is that you shouldn't put grease in the lock. Only graphite powder and I share that opinion. Probably the previous owner of my 2CV used grease for the lock.

When I first started a 2CV, I did this the way I started a modern car.

Turn the ignition key and continue starting until the engine continues to run.

However, this is not the way a 2CV should be started.

How do you do it?

With a cold engine we pull out the choke about halfway. Then we turn the key with the left hand, very short, 1 second is enough and then we release the key. 
Often the engine already runs. If it hasn't been struck yet, the choke can be pressed or pulled out slightly, that's purely on feeling.

Even with a warm engine we turn the key very briefly, a touch of about 1 second is enough!

You have a French lump of metal in the workshop, you know it's a 2CV engine, but whether the thing is running or not can only be said with certainty if the machine is built into a duck and an attempt is made to start it. The frustration is great when the engine rattles and stutters after a long period of hard work or does not start at all. That can be fixed.

I built myself a device to test engines solo, outside of the duck. For this you first need a broken gear box, which is disassembled so that the front gearbox part falls off. This is equipped with a starter. With the starter screw connection, a battery ground cable is screwed in. When connecting the starter, an analog plus cable. A cable with a plug on the other side is screwed onto the connection screw of the positive cable for the battery to be inserted into the plus connection of the coil.

Now insert a coil with ignition cables on the plugs and cable on the motor from the crusher contact to the minus of the coil. With the motor starter described above, which is clamped to the magnetic switch on one side and the positive connection of the starter on the other, we can play with the ignition lock. The petrol hose is extended with a piece of new hose and put in a petrol can. An oil pressure control light is now very noble, which is simply connected between the cable on the motor and the plus to the starter. All these machines are now simply screwed onto the respective motor, two nuts are enough to test, one at the top right and one at the bottom left or vice versa...

Given that the engine has certainly been standing for a while, it makes sense to first flood the carburetor and the fuel pump with gasoline with the help of a syringe. And then see if the spark plugs are still there and under certain circumstances adjust or even renew the contacts and valves. Oh - oops - see if there's any oil left in the engine. Now connect a battery to the cable and ready. Put the battery and the petrol can in front of the engine, because the exhaust is practically the heat exchanger and the flames can be thrown out...

Before starting the engine for the first time, unscrew the motor from the coil with the positive cable and check for oil pressure, hence the oil pressure indicator light. If there is oil pressure, the machine can now be started online, i.e. with the plus connected to the coil. Makes a lot of noise, so don't necessarily keep this action on the Sunday before going to church. When the engine is running, check that both cylinders are running optimally. Once you can check this by holding your hands to the right and left of the exhaust (which is actually not there) and seeing if the pressure on both sides is the same (note: hot + possibly flames!).

If the machine has been running for a while, you can also test the parallelity of the heat on the heat exchangers and valve covers. If both sides are the same, these are good conditions for a good machine. The rattling of curlers or piston pins can also be heard in this riot, I have organized a stethoscope with a long stick. As a result, you can hear specifically defective crankshafts, piston pins or simply rattling valves to the sound. It is now also possible to test the compression of the machine in disassembled condition; You can't get real values with the pendulum.

It happens that the 2CV has to be started repeatedly to get the engine to work at all. This is the case, for example, when adjusting the contact or carburetor. If you then tinker with the 2CV, you will definitely have oily hands and use them to lubricate the door handle, the ignition key and the choke lever. Apart from that, the duck always goes out if you want to close the door and go to the engine. I came up with something very simple. Take a switch to test the brake fluid indicator light with two connected cables, about 30 cm long.

Put two crocodile clamps on it and that's all. One pole is connected to the plus on the battery, the other terminal to the thinner cable of the starter, the magnetic switch. Make sure all connections are insulated, otherwise you will get sparks. If you press the button now, you will do nothing but turn the ignition key without turning it. You can accelerate directly on the carburetor on the throttle and also the choke. Turn on the ignition, do not forget to pull out of gear and put on the handbrake. So you can start the engine and at the same time make any changes to the adjustment of the carburetor or the contact. If you are using a switch from another manufacturer, make sure that it is a button that interrupts contact immediately when it is released.

Even the emergency service is pretty stunned for a 2CV if the contact no longer does what it needs to or the V-string hangs in the fan housing. The 14 mm cap with 1/2' drive is sometimes too thick and does not fit in the propeller.

Many 2CV drivers therefore have a 14 mm pipe key with them in their on-board tools. However, for permanent use, the key available in regular stores is quite stupid. These things have holes to insert a screwdriver or something like that and act as a lever, but how often has a screwdriver broken off if the bolt is too tight? The remedy is a normal cap key size 18, which fits perfectly on a standard 14x15 pipe wrench on the 15 mm side. So you can unscrew the bolt safely and easily with a 1/2' drive or ratchet. Also looks great this tool...

You can also use a 19 mm ring wrench and the mentioned water pump pliers. Another option is to use a perfectly normal 14 mm cap with a 3/8' drive and extension, which is thin enough and fits depending on the manufacturer. I myself use a long cap from Facom with a 1/2" connection. This also makes the fan a bit wobbly and possibly loosening a little left and right. One never stops learning...